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Indulge, The New Indian Express

Rasanai, Chennai

Under watchful eyes, a Chennai dining room serves up the South's many stories

Date
Served by
Shivani Illakiya
Read time
3 min

Thank you, visit again

Food at this new restaurant is lingered over and protected, much like the moments shared around the table

Sixteen painted drishti bommai masks in rows on Rasanai's dining-room wall, under woven lampshades

The moment you enter Rasanai, you are greeted not by soft lighting or music, but by sixteen drishti bommais staring straight back at you. Hung in perfect symmetry on a wall facing the dining area, these protective talismans are usually meant to guard thresholds and exteriors. Here, they peer inward, as if keeping watch over every celebration that unfolds within. Over first dates and family reunions, celebratory lunches and quiet solo meals, whispered conversations, reconciliations, spontaneous proposals and long overdue catch-ups, the bommais seem to stand guard, absorbing it all and keeping the space untouched by anything unwanted.

The sea is close, the air carries salt, and the food leans confidently into the many flavours of the South. The menu itself is the result of extensive travel across South India, with the culinary team spending time at iconic messes and street food stalls, identifying dishes that felt essential rather than obvious. These signatures are then reimagined through Rasanai’s own lens, elevated but not distanced from their roots.

This is an excerpt. Read the full story on Indulge, The New Indian Express

Fried seafood on a banana leaf, topped with sliced onion and microgreens, with a wedge of lime

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